Category: Uncategorized

PROJECT:                   THRIFT STORE

DATE:                         MARCH – JUNE 2012

ROOF SURFACE:       EPDM

PRODUCT USED:       PRIME KOAT 624 & POLY-KOAT 600 POLYURETHANE COATING.

CONTRACTOR:          RCS ROOFING

MANUFACTURER:     ANCHOR COATINGS, INC.

This project was brought to Anchor Coatings attention when the Operation Manager saw water running down the walls of this church thrift store. He called Anchor Coatings to inspect and give a recommendation. This roof was a perfect candidate for our Poly-Koat 600 Polyurethane roof coating.

 PROJECT DETAILS:

The roof was pressure washed and prepped with Prime Koat 624, then caulked around the roof vents and prepared for coating with Poly-Koat 600. The waterproofing contractor was very familiar using these types of coatings for this type of roof.

Rubber Roofs Or EPDM-(EPDM rubber (ethylene propylene diene monomer (M-class) rubber, a type of synthetic rubber) roofs are typically made from synthetic rubber.

When tackling these types of roofs(commercial), please consult a waterproofing contractor or roofing contractor on recommendations of the right coatings.

Here is the temperature difference this roof coating makes:

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Painting the outside of your home, office or other building not only renews its appearance, it also protects it from the elements. Following these tips will help your paint job go more smoothly, look better and last longer!

1. Get the Right Tools

Most outdoor paint projects require the following:

Paint! Here are estimates based on building size (your experience may vary):

• 1300sf: 10 gallons for exterior walls, 4 gallons for eaves/fascia, 1 gallon for trim, 1 gallon for doors/garage

• 2500sf: 15 gallons for walls, 7 gallons for eaves/fascia, 2 gallons for trim, 2 gallons for doors/garage
• 4000sf: 20 gallons for walls, 11 gallons for eaves/fascia, 3 gallons for trim, 3 gallons for doors/garage

Supplies you will need:

Brushes, rollers, paint tray & liners, caulk and caulk gun, drop cloths, ladder, masking tape, masking paper, extension pole, patching putty, putty knife, scraper, sandpaper, scrub brush, rags and sponges.

2. Get Prepped!

Prepping is key to getting beautiful, lasting results!

• Remove outdoor furniture, hoses, pots, etc. away from work area.
• Remove light fixtures, address numbers, etc., and tape screws to back of items.
• Place drop cloths on patios, walkways, plants – anything you want to protect from paint spatter.
• Scrape or sand imperfections, patch & sand holes, remove or hammer down exposed nails.
• Caulk any gaps, seams or wide cracks.
• Lightly sand all glossy surfaces to allow new paint to adhere. Wipe away any dust with damp rag.
• Power-wash all areas to be painted (or have it done professionally).
• Remove all mold or mildew from areas to be painted.
• Once areas are completely dry, mask any needing protection with tape or paper.

3. Prime and Paint!

Primer is an important step if you have any areas that are uncoated, have patches, repairs or stains, or if you’re painting over a dark color with a lighter one. Primer is also needed if you’re painting over an oil-based coating.

• Paints eaves first – Start at a top corner and use a high-quality brush to cut in a 3-4 inch strip – a brush allows you more control and helps keep paint where you want it.
• Next use a roller to finish eaves and paint walls.
• Paint fascia/trim/doors last – Start at a corner and use a brush or roller to complete the area.

Be sure to clean all brushes and other tools with soap and water (latex paint) or mineral spirits (oil-based finishes). Once paint is completely dry, carefully remove all masking materials and reinstall fixtures.

Now stand back and marvel at your excellent work!

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